If you want to surf in the morning and still have somewhere to go at night, Canggu is where we'd send you. It sits on Bali's south-west coast in Badung regency, and Batu Bolong and Echo Beach are where most people catch their first waves. There are still rice fields cutting between the villas and cafés, which surprises people.

Now, the traffic. We won't pretend it isn't bad: the main roads clog through the day, the lanes are narrow, and we almost always take a scooter over a car. But if you're thinking weeks rather than days, this is the one we'd pick for you. It's the area that grew up around people who came for a holiday and stayed.