good to know before you plan
December is really two trips. The first three weeks are cheap and quiet, the holiday fortnight is neither. Highland rates stay low outside that window, and the five days run around $120 to $210 per person depending on which side of it you land on.
The weather is wet either way, and December cloud means a clear summit sunrise is uncommon. Two or three mornings on the rim materially improve the odds, which is worth planning for rather than hoping about. We would take the first half of the month without hesitating, and think hard before booking into the holiday fortnight.
Bali in December: A 5-Day Kintamani and Highlands Itinerary
Five days is the sweet spot for one region of Bali, and this plan spends all of it on Kintamani and the highlands. December is wet, and splits into a cheap first three weeks and an expensive holiday fortnight.
You split the five days between the Kintamani rim and Ubud: the pre-dawn Batur trek and the lakeside hot springs up top, then the temples and terraces of the valley below. It is one clean loop rather than a scramble across the island.
Five days in the December highlands, atmospheric with long summit odds
December
Week 2
day by day
Two nights on the Kintamani rim for the trek and the hot springs, then three back in Ubud. Five days covers the highlands and a little of the valley, not both in full.
Day 1: Arrive, sleep in Ubud.
Day 2: Drive up after breakfast, afternoon at the Toya Bungkah hot springs.
Day 3: Trek if the sky is clear, otherwise the lake by boat to Trunyan and a long lunch on the rim.
Day 4: Second attempt at the trek, then back down to Ubud.
Day 5: Slow morning, then the airport with generous time for the traffic.
If your dates fall after roughly 20 December, book the restaurants, the activities and the airport transfer before you fly. The holiday fortnight sells out and prices roughly triple.
Where to Eat
Central Ubud for the broadest dining selection
Penestanan for cafés and relaxed healthy dining
Tegallalang for restaurants overlooking rice fields
Local villages for traditional Balinese warungs
Ubud markets for casual local food and snacks
Where to Stay
Penelokan: best for caldera viewpoints.
Toya Bungkah: best for hot springs and lakeside.
Kedisan: best for lake access and boats.
Batur village: best for early trek starts.
Songan: best for quiet lakeside stays.
Ubud side: best for warmer nights nearby.
best Things to Do
Explore Ubud’s cultural centre
Walk through rice fields and terraces
Visit Tegallalang Rice Terrace
See Tirta Empul and nearby temples
Walk the Campuhan Ridge
Attend a traditional Balinese dance performance
Join a cooking, craft or wellness class
Explore waterfalls and river valleys
Take a day trip into Bali’s central highlands.
Book nights, not hopes
Book the rim room first and take more nights than feels necessary, because in December each extra morning is a separate chance at a clear summit and nothing else improves the odds. Trek packages still need arranging ahead since guides are mandatory, and it is worth confirming the operator will postpone to the next morning at no cost. A driver is close to essential on a steep unlit road that is now also wet. Three links below.
frequently asked questions
What is the weather like in Kintamani in December?
Wet, cold and frequently clouded in. December sits in the rainy season, so low cloud over the caldera is common and clear sunrise mornings are the exception. Altitude keeps it cold: nights on the rim run into the mid teens and feel colder in the damp, while the coast sits at 27 to 31 degrees.
Is the Mount Batur trek worth booking in December?
Only with flexible dates. The trek operates year-round and the climb is no harder in the wet, but December cloud means a clear summit sunrise is uncommon. Two or three mornings on the rim materially improves the odds. With a single attempt over a fixed holiday date, expect a decent walk rather than the photograph.
Is Kintamani busy over Christmas?
The trek is, because holiday dates are fixed and people book regardless of the forecast. The rest of the area is much quieter than the coast, since the Christmas and New Year crowd concentrates on the beaches and in Ubud. Accommodation on the rim is easier to find over the holidays than almost anywhere in south Bali.